re-entry--return to Real Life

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My sister laughed: "Only Sue would feel the need for a vacation after four and a half months in Thailand." True. But even before heading to Thailand I knew I'd want a transition, de-briefing and reorienting before being functional back home. I chose Lopez Island off the coast of Washington, visiting my friends Mary and Glen. An excellent choice it proved to be.

Lopez is about the size and shape of Manhatten Island (thus about the size and shape of Bellingham, MA), beautiful and varied, mostly pasture and farms with some wonderful state parks. We hiked, enjoyed the wind and water, and I re-acclimated to a chilly climate.
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One day was spent in Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. While Mary played duplicate bridge and Glen recovered from a cold, I explored on my own--my first time in five months to wander independently. Fun shops, nice people, Northwest art, always the orienting point of the slope down to the water.

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It was great to be a welcomed observer in American activities in which I didn't need to function, and Mary and Glen were wonderful at absorbing my need to talk about Thailand non-stop for a few days.

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Mt. Baker in the background is a reminder that the islands are surrounded by active volcanoes, which could erupt at any time; in the meantime the snowy peaks are stunningly beautiful. The ferry is the only way to get out to the islands, so all inter-island planning needs to work around ferry schedules. Some meetings are held on the ferry so all islanders can attend.

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The gulls looked quite familiar, same as on Cha-am beach in Petchaburi and the same as in Rockport, MA.

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Hallowe'en on Lopez was fun; this is Glen's jack-o'-lantern. Mary and I made rice crispy treats, got about 70 kids trooping up to show their costumes. Everyone knows everyone on the island, and I think every Lopezite has had a personal hug from Mary.

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Now I'm back in Massachusetts, slowly unpacking and shifting my thoughts to family, holidays, getting back to work (where?) This afternoon Dave will give me a driving lesson, to re-acquaint me with my car and Massachusetts drivers.

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In some ways Thailand now seems very far away; and yet it will always be with me in every place I go. Tangible take-aways: many photos, many gifts, new skills in Thai cooking and massage, an admiration (no mastery yet) of the Thai language. Less tangible: a Buddhist appreciation for what is rather than what ought to be, some ideas on teaching English, increasing fondness for spicy food. And vivid memories of fine people.

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south Thailand

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Ranong is lovely. In the south we saw more hills and trees than Bangkok, more mosques than central or north Thailand. This mosque is walking distance from my home in Ranong, the hills a short drive away. Aom and family laughed as I scrambled up the hill for a better view; they thought it was too hot. Means I must be becoming acclimated to Thai weather, just in time for our US winter.
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Ranong is famous for its pearls, so we went shopping. Also famous for rubber plantations, which I found interesting and pretty, trees all in orderly rows.
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And Aom's family took me to Phuket, rightfully famous for its beautiful beaches. The family pose is in the hotel where Aom's parents went for their honeymoon, quite elegant and now outrageously expensive. Just like Mom and Dad for their 50th, evidence that you chose a good location the first time 'round.

Currently with AFS for end-of-stay in Thailand; I think my next post will be a wrap-up from the States. It has been a wonderful visit, rich and varied.
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the people of Taweewattana

Just a few of the people I grew to know and love in Taweewattana (part of Bangkok, near Nakhon Pathom):

Boom's niece and nephew, Naan's kids.









My two Thai language teachers, Ajahn Siribun on the left and Ajahn Suriporn on the right, in the Thai department admiring the new baby of another teacher.









My music teacher Ajahn Siranat (in the tie) and one of the student photographers. The student is the brother of the xylophone player, can't miss the resemblance.









YaJing from China, my AFS adviser Ajahn Jiaranai, Julian from Germany. We were dressed up for the Wisdom ceremony, and seated in our seats of honor (AFSers always get the sofa, while the students sit cross-legged on the floor.)









This is Master Jeffrey, English teacher at the local elementary school. He's from New Jersey, has lived in Thailand for thirteen years.




































These are Mae and Gan, my favorite kid-friends. Their mother is on the left, is a science teacher at the school.

the people of Isaan

The glimpse of Isaan is incomplete without a view of the people. I found them to be diligent, generous, observant, fun.

Isn't she lovely? Dana's host sister Miw loves pink. This is on a walk we all took through the forest near the temple. The umbrella is a standard Thai precaution against the strong afternoon sun, also handy if it suddenly starts to rain. I always carry one, as do most women and some men.











These are the silk weavers of Boeng Khae. They clearly love fine fabric and are justifiably proud of their work. We went to visit them with Dana's AFS adviser Ajahn Benjaporn, who grew up nearby. The weaving operation is part of OTOP, one tambon one product. The concept is clearly successful here.











From the back of the table at our outdoor cafe: Khun Paw, Dana's host dad; Khun Maa, the mom; Miw, older sister; Nong, younger sister; Dana from Wisconsin and Irine from the Philippines.











One of many interesting forms of transportation in Thailand; this is one I never saw in Bangkok.











Dana, Miw and Nong playing chinese checkers in the family living room. The girls had never played before, but they caught on quickly.

Isaan

This shows the contrast that is Isaan--the beauty of elegant temples and the vast expanses of forested hills.

























We went to a village with long looms to weave gorgeous silk fabrics. Yes, I'll be bringing home some silk, and some more pictures. I wish we could've spent longer; anyway it was a wonderful chance to meet the weavers, see their looms, see some of the dying process--fascinating.








And this is the cows who live at the host family of Dana, the American AFS teaching assistant from Wisconsin whom I visited for the five days. Wonderful family, and cute cows. They came to the fence to nuzzle me--

temples in Ayuttaya, for real

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This is Saiparn, YaJing's host sister, at the famous bo tree that grew up around a fallen stone head of a Buddha. Wat MahaThat.
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Wat PhananChoeng, with its Chinese part and the older Thai part, both Buddhist.

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Wat Phra Srisanpetch, ruined during the wars with Burma in the 18th century.

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And Wat PhananChoeng at night...

temples in Ayuttaya

flowers in Ayuttaya

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These are the flowers they use for garlands, in both purple and white. The garland-ready fluted spiral is less than a centimeter in length; strung end to end they are lovely.
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Just when I thought I must have seen all the kinds of flowers in Thailand, I noticed more and more. The Thai people must have thought me strange as I cycled through town, stopping often to take a picture of "ordinary" flowers.

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This is a banana-tree flower, seen at the Ayuttaya floating market.

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The orange flower in the top picture and this red one are both tree flowers--trees loaded with beautiful blossoms.
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I'm guessing the little yellow part is the actual "flower" and the pink are brachts, similar to our dogwoods. Botanists may comment. This is at the Japanese village, a fascinating memorial of the history of Ayuttaya as an international port city in the 15th century.

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And more lila wadi, here seen in front of the massage school: Boonyakorn school of traditional Thai massage.

massage course in Ayuttaya

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Consider this the before and after picture. My role model is the director of the massage school, seen here in natural-dyed Thai silk. She's 60 years old, so in two years I can look just like her...
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I was in Ayuttaya for ten days to attend a Thai massage school, 50+hours of instruction and a two-hour hands-on exam. Each morning I took my borrowed bicycle to a nearby temple (Wat Caw' Kaeow, but you won't find it on any map), then to the Ayuttaya train station for breakfast of fried rice or pad Thai. I'm the only one who took advantage of the opportunity to pay for a one-hour massage ($3/hour) before class--well worth it. Felt great and helped me remember the previous day's instruction. Class from 10 am to 4 pm with an hour for a lunch of noodles at the shop next door. After class, I joined my German classmates to see old temple ruins, or explored on my trusty bicycle.
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My nine classmates were young Germans, age 15 to 18, so it was linguistically fascinating. The Thai instructors knew no German and minimal English, so they relied beautifully on tangible demonstrations. Here the one standing is the instructor, showing Johanna in yellow what it should feel like as she practices on Yanina.
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Here you see a good demonstration of the sen lines--kind of like meridians, or energy lines. They are the safe areas to push with really firm massage. Causes that "good kind of pain"; the real massage therapists say cheerfully, "Thaep, mai?", meaning, "Hurts, eh?"
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Below you see Konstantin and Tim with another instructor. This is a great aspect of traditional Thai massage, sometimes described as "passive yoga".
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One history says this version of Thai massage was developed for Siddhartha, the Buddha himself, by his personal physician. Our school's description says it's not so simple, and was probably developed over centuries. In any case, it's pretty well defined by now, with a rich and ancient past.
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my last day at Dipangkorn

No photos for this post; you'll need to use your imagination.

Imagine me strolling home from school this afternoon. Ahead is the skyline of Wat Sala Daeng's red roof, green palm trees, fluffy white clouds and brilliant blue sky. To my left is the now-familiar canal, Khlong Phatom. To my right is a lush wilderness of palms, banana trees, vines, flowers. Behind me are my four student gift-carriers, helping me to haul the myriad presents from students, teachers, and departments.

My head and heart are full to bursting with well-wishes and images of the events of the day.

The courtyard backdrop was yellow, with a huge white "Sue Richardson" (written in English) flanked by an elephant holding the Thai flag on the left and the Statue of Liberty on the right. Our normal assembly was followed by the chance for me to say a few words (in English and in Thai), and then a drama and a dance performance in my honor.
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From there we went upstairs to the auditorium, where M 4-5-6 (10th, 11th, 12th grades) gave their special presentations. There was a fascinating rendition of Cinderella, written and acted by the students of 4/1. The stepmother and stepsisters were elegantly dressed in Japanese kimonos, the guards bowed low on their knees to king and queen before delivering the invitations to the ball, and again before taking the shoe around for its fitting. The dancers at the ball wore shimmery mini-skirts and high heels, danced to rock music. The guards were called "guardians" and our fairy godmother was an "angel". Great fun to watch--
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Then came another dance performance; this time I was invited to participate, had a very handsome young dance partner. Songs: Hungry Man's blues (written by His Majesty King Bhumibol of Thailand), Shanana, Pretty Boy. And then I sang two duets--the Thai national anthem and our March Dipangkorn. The whole student body joined us.
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All day long I was invited to be in photos, given good wishes for my travels around Thailand and back to the US, and generally adored. After lunch we AFSers were invited to the home-ec department where we learned to make palm-tree fishes and coconut cream on sweet purple gelatin dessert--delicious. Walking across the school courtyard at the end of the day, I was greeted by a group of students with a request: Ajahn Wichai said we could get extra points if we speak English to you. They all had the same basic message: my name is__; my friends call me__; my birthday is___; I like football (science, Manchester United, etc.); I am __ years old. One was teased by his friends because his English spiel was too short. He stammered, at a loss for words, then finally beamed: "I love you, Teacher Sue!" Okay, that will get you some extra points.
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Tomorrow I head for Ayuttaya, where I'll take a ten-day Thai massage course. The semester is over; I still have another month in Thailand, so stay tuned...-------------------------------------------------------------------------

Phra Taem national park

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After our lunch overlooking the MaeKong, we headed up to a lovely national park. Various levels of sandstone have eroded differently, to give a varied and beautiful landscape. I'm glad the Thai government has preserved it as a national park, open to all.
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Hard to tell from the photo; the paintaings on the walls are protected from sun and rain by an overhanging ledge. They're estimated to be over 3,000 years old. We walked close enough to touch them, but were cautioned not to. They're actually in remarkably good condition.
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Interesting vegetation, unlike what I've grown used to in Bangkok. Again you see across the MaeKong to Laos.

With OnAnong and her two sisters, wonderful hosts! You also see one of several interesting rock formations.